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Tuesday, April 19, 2016

Walnut and Apricot Torte


I made this for my father's birthday, and I like it because it's a very well-balanced combination of flavours and textures that can easily be recombined. The nut cake can be made with any ground nut you like- almond, pistachio, hazelnut and so on. You can use many kinds of jam and maybe even flavour the pastry cream. To me, this is the quintessential Central European torte, somehow simultaneously rich and light, easy but elegant, and perfect for any occasion. 

I made some flowers out of slivered dried apricots, but also decorated with walnuts, almond slices, white chocolate and some macaron shells I made that were in the freezer. Despite being tall and full of different components, it was not the type of cake that made you feel very full afterwards- my parents are pretty anti-buttercream in general, preferring whipped cream in most things. It definitely makes this cake easier and faster to make.


I have made variations of this theme for many birthdays before, and the two most important things to remember are to be careful grinding oily nuts like walnuts (if you go too far all you'll get is a cloggy paste) and to afford yourself lots of time and space so you don't get overwhelmed in the preparation of all the different components and assembly. I can't wait for the next birthday cake I'll get to make for my sister- that one will be a bit more American. I love all kinds of cake equally, after all.


Walnut and Apricot Torte

For the Walnut Sponge
Adapted from Baking, by Peter Jameson

4 Eggs
6 Egg whites
3/4 C. Sugar
1/2 C. Cake flour
1 C. Ground walnuts, or about 2 C. unground
1 Tsp. Vanilla extract
Pinch of cream of tartar

Preheat oven to 180℃. Butter two 9'' cake pans and place a round piece of baking parchment on the bottom. Grease the paper.

In a food processor, Blend half the sugar, flour, eggs, vanilla and walnuts, pulsing the walnuts first a few times if they aren't already ground. Transfer to a large bowl.

Beat the cream of tartar and egg whites until it turns white and fluffy. Add the remaining sugar and beat until shiny, fluffy peaks form.

Mix 1/3 of the egg white mixture into the walnut mixture with a spatula to lighten it before gently folding in the rest, mixing only until just combined. 

Pour or scoop into the pans and bake for 25-35 minutes, or until they bounce back when poked.

Use a knife around the rims to dislodge the cakes, then remove and peel off the parchment on the bottom. Let cool completely before slicing each in half lengthwise.

For the Pastry Cream
4 Egg yolks
1/4 C. Cornstarch
1/2 C. Sugar
1 Vanilla Bean, halved lengthwise
2 C. Whole milk
1 TBSP Butter

Heat the milk in a large saucepan until steaming. If using the vanilla bean, add and cover to let steep for 30 minutes.


Mix the yolks, sugar and starch. Bring the milk back to an almost-boil on medium-high heat and quickly whisk in a ladle full of the hot milk to the yolk mixture. 


When the yolk and egg mixture is completely blended, pour back into the saucepan through a sieve to catch any clumps. Cook on medium-low heat while whisking constantly until thickened. Remove from heat and keep whisking for another 2-3 minutes. Add the butter.


Once at room temperature, pour into a bowl or container and cover with plastic wrap to prevent a skin from forming.

For the Jam Filling
1 C. Apricot jam or fine preserves
1 TBSP Rum or apricot brandy

Mix well and warm gently in a bain-marie or add more liquor if very thick.

For the Whipped Cream
2 C. Whipping cream
2-3 TBSP Superfine or powdered sugar
1 Tsp. Vanilla extract

Beat the whipping cream, sugar and vanilla until very fluffy. Refrigerate until ready to use.

To Garnish
12 Walnut halves
Slivered preserved, fresh or dried apricots

To assemble:

Spread a slice of the walnut sponge with the jam willing, then add a layer of pastry cream. Top with another sponge slice and repeat until all are used. Frost the top and sides of the cake with the whipped cream and decorate with garnishes.


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