On the Preparation of Lupini Beans

A while ago, I bought some lupini beans out of curiosity. I had never eaten them before, but figured that they wouldn't be so different from other large, pale beans- I'd cook them in tomato sauce or the like. But after boiling them, I found myself corrected- they were bitter as Hell and very firm, too. No matter how long I boiled them, they wouldn't get soft or lose that bitter taste.

So, I turned to the internet. I was surprised to learn that this ancient bean beloved by the Romans centuries back has an issue with alkaloids- bitter, toxic compounds that make the bean inedible without proper preparation. Considering that I now had a kilogram of boiled, uneatable beans, I was very eager to know what I had to do to make them taste good. The general theme of the many guides that I saw was to gradually draw the alkaloids out by repeatedly soaking the boiled beans in water over the course of about a week.

So, I did. I changed the water 5 or 6 times a day, rinsing the beans thoroughly in between, keeping refrigerated at night. On the sixth day, the beans seemed just about ready, but I boiled them one more time to make sure. I then soaked them in salted water (about 2-3 TBSP for the kilo of beans) and topped them with a broken-up dried red chili, a spoonful of oregano flakes, and a jar of black olives. I refrigerated the whole lot overnight and, in the morning, found my efforts finally rewarded.

At first, they didn't seem like much. But they really are addictive- popping them into your mouth out of their tough skins is oddly satisfying (though I like them skins and all), and they have a subtle flavour unlike any other bean that goes very well with the olive brine and pepper. They also have a fantastic firm texture despite the days of boiling and soaking. 

Lupini beans are high in protein and fibre, to boot. It makes them a pretty ideal snack, and though they can often be purchased ready in jars, I find that the home-prepared ones are slightly better since they don't need an acidity regulator. Try them yourself- there isn't much active work involved, just rinsing and draining, and the reward is delicious and nutritious.

How to Prepare Lupini Beans

1. Soak overnight.
2. Boil until tender but firm, about 45 minutes.
3. Drain and cover with water.
4. Change water 4-5 times a day for 5-6 days, or until all bitterness is gone. In between water changes, rinse beans for about 30 seconds at a time in a colander.
5. Give one last quick boil of about 15 minutes. Drain and cover with water that's salted to taste, and any other desired flavourings:

• A jar of olives added to the brine
• A couple of spoons of red chili flakes, dried oregano, or other herbs and seasonings

Che Chuoi Chung- Tapioca, Banana and Cassava Pudding

Mmm, che. I always feel very lucky to have grown up in Mississauga for being exposed to cultures that I never would have living elsewhere- amongst the many benefits of the mosaic-like society is the fact that I can try foods I'd never heard of before quite regularly. I was in a Vietnamese eatery (that same one where I discovered xoi gac) when I saw large tubs of what looked like puddings behind the counter. I asked about it and all of the ingredients sounded delicious, so I tried a couple. Along with che dau trang (my other favourite, recipe coming soon) I was fixated on how to make the delicious che chuoi chung. After all, there were no Western dishes like this that I'd ever tried, and I had no idea where to start but good ol' Google.

 I soon found that what I needed was simple- tapioca pearls, sugar, coconut milk, and some cassava and bananas. The last two were the only tricky part- but cassava is widely available in the freezer sections of Asian groceries, and the correct type of banana (firm, fleshy burro/sugar bananas tht hold up to extended cooking) are there as well, even available presliced. The garnishes of coconut topping and peanuts really do make the result perfect. I have found through the magic of the internet that in Vietnam, various types of che can be eaten at just about any time of day, for breakfast or a snack. I certainly wouldn't mind a greater availability of these!

There's nothing really tricky about making it yourself- just make sure that no component is over or undercooked. My cassava was precooked before freezing, so I didn't need to boil it for very long, but it's important that the cassava is tender, the tapioca pearls cooked through, and the bananas not overcooked. I added pandan leaf for a bit more aroma, which I find works very well. I have made the dish with both coconut milk and coconut cream, and while coconut milk is more readily available (and tends to be better quality, for some reason), both options work.

It's also nice to make this yourself so that you can adjust the sweetness, thickness, and amount of water compared to coconut milk/cream- I make mine on the richer side, and add sugar in differing amounts depending on whether I want it as breakfast or a pudding. While particularly welcome served warm on a winter's day, I'd have it at any temperature, any time. The mixture of textures and flavours is unparalleled, showing that even a very simple and humble food can be something special.

Che Chuoi Chung
Adapted from SBS

600 ml. Water
about 250 ml. Coconut cream (or, instead of 600 ml. water, use 350 ml. with 500 ml. coconut milk)
3-4 Burro/Sugar Bananas, sliced lengthwise into thin slices
100 g. Cassava, cut into 2 cm. pieces
140 g. Sugar
2-3 Pandan leaves, optional
40 g. Small tapioca/sago pearls
Pinch of salt

Cook the tapioca/sago in a saucepan of boiling water until translucent and soft, about 5-10 minutes. Strain and set aside.

Boil the 600 ml. water, half of the coconut cream, pandan leaves, salt, and sugar. Add the cassava and cook until tender. Add the banana slices and let simmer uncovered until thickened, about 10 more minutes. Add the remaining coconut cream and tapioca. Serve in small bowls or glasses.

For the Topping:
250 ml. Coconut milk
1 TBSP Sugar
1 Tsp. Tapioca or potato starch
Pinch of salt
35 g. Roasted unsalted peanuts

Whisk together the coconut milk, sugar, salt and starch. Bring to a simmer in a small saucepan and let cook until thickened, about 3 minutes. Set aside. Spoon onto the che just before serving.

Crush the peanuts with a pestle and mortar or pulse in a food processor. Sprinkle onto the che before serving.

Hoddeok- Korean Yeast Pancakes with Brown Sugar, Cinnamon and Walnuts

I adore these pancakes. They're sold in Toronto's Koreatown with either a brown sugar or red bean filling, and sometimes the walnuts are replaced with roasted sunflower seeds, but they're always delicious. They can be eaten for breakfast, as a snack, with tea, and so on- just make sure you serve them hot so that the brown sugar is in its syrupy, gooey state.

These are really, really easy to make, even if you're not experienced with yeast doughs. Just make sure the water isn't hot, and you're good to go. The ingredients are simple, and probably already in your pantry. The rise time is quite short, and you don't even need to knead it too much- just mix well with a silicone spatula or wooden spoon. The only step requiring any real work is shaping the dough into balls and filling them, which is quick work as long as your surface has enough flour to prevent sticking. They're vegan, too. What's not to love?

These are the best on a cold, wet, or otherwise gloomy day when you want something sweet with a drink of tea or coffee, but don't have the energy to make the whole shebang of a pastry. Of course, syrupy and fried things are always rather comforting, and these have the added bonus of making the vicinity smell like cinnamon and brown sugar.

If you want to switch it up, the filling options are very versatile. I made half of mine with a cup of grated mozzarella, a clove of minced garlic, a teaspoon of oregano and a fat pinch of red chili flakes to make a savoury version. Really, anything melty is very good. Suggestions include choco-hazelnut spread and banana slices, chocolate and mini-marshmallows, tomato sauce and cheese, maple sugar... whatever you happen to have on hand. I'd definitely try the more classic red bean paste option, too.

Have a big pot of tea ready so that both are hot and fresh at the same time. Commit the recipe to memory as I have and enjoy the wizardry of cinnamon and brown sugar together in fried yeasted dough as often as desired.

Hoddeok
Makes 8
From Messy Witchen

1 C. Water, lukewarm
2 Tsp. Active dry yeast (I used 25 g. fresh yeast)
2 C. Flour, All purpose or bread
2 TBSP Sugar
1 TBSP Oil
1/2 Tsp. Salt
Oil, to fry

For the Filling:
1/2 C. Brown sugar
1 Tsp. Cinnamon
1/4 C. Walnut pieces

Dissolve the yeast in the water and add the sugar. Mix into the flour and add the oil and salt, kneading together to form a sticky dough. Let rise, covered, for an hour.

Knead and let rest 20 minutes. Mix all of the filling ingredients and set aside. Form 8 balls on a floured surface. Flatten each and wrap around an eighth of the filling. Seal in well and form balls.

Heat a large skillet or griddle to medium-high. Add some oil and cook 1 1/2 minutes, pressing down with a spatula after 30 seconds to flatten. Flip oven and cook another minute.  Reduce heat to low and let cook one more minute, covered, to melt the sugar. Repeat until all the pancakes are fried, and serve hot.